The Land of Burls and Coffee
Motto: "You never can tell with DeLorme."

The theme of our trip: closed roads and navigational uncertainty. Which matter only if you have to be somewhere, or more precisely a specific somewhere. Having no such restrictions we wandered with impunity on roads of questionable destination -- Galice Road, Oregon Skyline Road, Pumice Butte Road -- and always ended up some somewhere. Our guides were the atlas-and-gazetteers by the DeLorme Mapping Co. The DeLorme folks, ever the optimists, show every road that might exist, or at one time existed, or exists during certain seasons of the year, and you have to guess which are currently accepting motor vehicles. It's de-lovely, it's delightful, it's DeLorme.

(Not that DeLorme carried out the theme on its own. A hike described as three miles by the National Park Service was actually 7.5, and we encountered a surprising number of roads partly blocked by end-of-summer roadwork and auto accidents.)

Now onto our awards.

ELL on Wheels: Two establishments win the coveted Roadies for this trip.

Substantiating their previous Roadies were the Riverhouse and the Pine Tavern in Bend, Ore., and the Piemont in Mt. Shasta, Calif.

Glad we met ya:

New experiences:

Pressing questions: