North of Thousand Island Lake


The trip was demanding, but the key was staying just barely within the safe side of our physical capabilities. It broke down roughtly like this: One ''prologue'' day walking up dead-flat Lyell Canyon, which concluded with a hellish, one-hour climb. Two killer days of long mileage and extreme climbing that severely tested our margins and reserves. Two cruise days where we just glided along without much anguish at all. And, finally, two more killer days of climbing. We're very pleased (and somewhat surprised) to report that we got stronger as the trip went on.

Alas, after much hand-wringing on David's part, we never did get to see a bear, let alone get mugged by one. With our four standard 3-pound-plus bear cannisters, we were an unattractive target. We were at least peripherally aware of the big bad bruin's presence, though. Most every long-distance hiker we chatted up related stories of people camped in the same areas we were who'd lost some or all of their provisions and gear to bears.

As much as we hated the cannisters (they were heavy, awkward to load, way too small ...) we liked the alternatives even less. Toward the end of the trip we were actually a little crestfallen in the mornings to see that the bears had given us a pass yet again. We began to wonder if perhaps our provisions were, well, not attractive. Perhaps is was we -- the great unwashed -- who were unattractive to man or beast at that point.

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