Wanda Lake
Once over the pass, we leave the drainage of the South Fork of the San Joaquin and enter the domain of the Middle Fork of the Kings River. We hustle on down through a barren, treeless landscape, a natural quarry of non-granitic rock. The footing is treacherous and we can just imagine what sheer hell it must be for the Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikers who have to ascend this way early in the season, with two or three feet of snow still on the ground, unable to see what they're stepping onto. We pass Helen Lake on the south, stop briefly to pump water at a second unnamed lake and then zoom-- straight down the granite chute. The hike down from the pass to Big Pete Meadow (9,200 ) in Le Conte Canyon is spectacular and rocky, with a half dozen stream crossings.
It all passes in a blur for me because I'm fixated on meeting our resupply packer at 5 p.m. at Le Conte Ranger Station. Worried that he'll miss me, just drop the boxes and turn tail, I fly down the granite stairs, passing everyone in my path except the Forest Service firefighting hotshots, who somehow manage to pass me, even with shovels and pulaskis lashed to their packs. I finally spot Big Pete Meadow way below me at 5 p.m., mutter an unprintable sentiment or two, and decide to really kick it in. I highball through Big Pete, Little Pete and the junction with the Dusy Basin/South Lake trail so fast I totally overlook the ranger station on the right. Eventually I double back just in time to see a packer with a mule in tow coming through the stock gate from the Dusy Basin trail. It is with great relief that I meet Sam from Rainbow Packers, a Harvard-bound Deep Springs College student in his last week on the job.
Everything survived the ride just fine, including a fine bottle of BV cabernet. We have what amounts to a feast that night as we calculate what we really want to take for the second half. We donate a small amount to a thru-hiker we've befriended, Hobbit, one of the handful who's been leapfrogging us on and off since Vermilion.
Our camp is one of just three well-used spots at the junction, almost within sight of the ranger station, right along the Middle Fork of the Kings River. Our alternate tonight, Grouse Meadows to the south, would have been a haul. It's a godsend for this nice big comfortable camp and well-used fire-pit. (Fires above 10K are prohibited, so it's a treat to have one tonight.) We appreciate all the little comforts, particularly the wine and Erik's biscotti and dark chocolate.
Saw 7 southbound and 11 northbound today.
From Evolution Lake it's a long but very pleasant 5.5 mile climb (at a mellow 200 ft/mile or so) to Muir Pass (11955, the high point of the trip thus far). The ascent as far as Wanda Lake was a total cruise. through gleaming bare granite and iridescent water. The real climb comes only in the last 500 feet, with the pass and the stone roof of the Muir Hut plainly in view. I had Susan waiting for me at the top to spur me on the final push. With thunder audible, but no thunderheads visible, we take a couple hasty photos in the moonscape scene and don't linger long before heading down. 
Muir Pass, looking north (left) and south
Total mileage: 12
Time out: 9:06
Time in: 5:30
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